FASHIONING APPETITE
Book ID/图书代码： 06545012B56142
English Summary/英文概要： It can no longer be said that we are just what we eat. In the contested sphere of gastronomy divided between the golden arches of McDonalds and the prized stars of Michelin where personal identity is expressed through a frenetic quest for socially-approved tastes and distinctions, where, when, how and with whom we eat has become just as fundamental in defining who we are. In this follow-on to her classic 1989 work "Dining Out: A Sociology of Modern Manners", Joanne Finkelstein takes a fragment of social life, dining out in restaurants, and uses it to examine the nature and meaning of manners and social relations in the modern world. This book examines how body images on billboards, social documentaries on the human and environmental cost of food and the abundance of choice in cosmopolitan and crowded cities contribute to a culture in which every forkful is weighted with meaning. When food is fetishised and identity is a capitalist commodity, the social solitude of the restaurant may be read as a semiotic realm where the satisfaction of appetite becomes both pleasure and torment. "Fashioning Appetite" explores the restaurant as a liminal space where the boundaries between public and private are constantly renegotiated, where our personal celebrations and seductions are conducted within view of the people sitting at the next table and eating alone has become a cultural minefield so perilous that there are how-to guides devoted to traversing it safely. Applying new theoretical developments in understanding emotional capitalism to the pervasive images of conspicuous consumption in popular culture, the vocabulary of appetites, tastes and distinctions is decoded to demonstrate how being satisfied with one’s meal goes to the heart of being satisfied with oneself. From the social solitude of Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks to the burgeoning phenomenon of the celebrity chef, Joanne Finkelstein demonstrates how eating in public has become a complex cultural and consumerist transaction exhibited for the critical gaze of the other, and argues that in our atomised society, our most voracious appetites and deepest anxieties are enacted in the restaurants where we serve up our splintered selves for public consumption.
Chinese Summary/中文概要： 你吃的是麥當勞這種連鎖店，還是米其林星級美食？
跟著社會潮流走還是喜歡小眾的口味？
吃什麼、哪裡吃、和誰吃、哪時吃？
「吃」不只是為了滿足生理需求而已，它已經成為社會人確立身份的一種重要方式。
過去，飲食文化只有簡單一句“we are just what we eat”（食物決定個性），但現今此話已無法囊括全部。Joanne Finkelstein擷取「到餐廳用餐」這一個生活片段，從用餐的各個方面來分析今日的社會。
一小口食物有大大的意義
餐廳的廣告語、食物的人力成本和環境成本、擁擠的都市中成千上萬的選擇都給我們吃的每一口食物賦予了意義。
可能愉悅，也可能痛苦的用餐體驗
在繁忙的資本社會裡，食物可能被物化，淪為純粹拿來維持體力的工具。很多人匆匆跑到餐廳，只為了趕快填飽肚子，卻無心留意身邊的風景，身邊的人，也沒意識到自己到底吃了什麼東西。在此種環境產生的用餐孤寂感，將滿足食欲這件事複雜化，雖然食欲被滿足，心靈卻也可能感到空虛。
餐廳空間設計&座位安排
在餐廳裡，大眾以及私人領域的分際越來越模糊。用餐時，我的欣賞什麼，受什麼吸引常常會受到鄰桌的影響。近日獨自去餐廳吃飯的人數越來愈多，如何妥善服務此類顧客也漸漸演變成餐廳經營者悉心鑽研的領域。餐廳的空間安排，既要適應公共空間的需求，也要能夠保護個人隱私。
對餐點的滿意度與自我滿意度的關聯
現今經濟活動與人的內在情感相結合，商品的功能性被淡化，人們更重視商品的構思以及象徵意義給予人們的心理滿足，此種“情感資本主義”理論可用以解釋食物對於情感的影響、可用以解釋無所不在的炫耀性消費。各種形容食欲、口味和食物特色的字彙，其背後都隱含了消費者食欲滿足後的個人滿足。
大至文化，小至個人，都在餐飲業當中表露無遺
有時，在公共空間用餐是孤獨的。客人與服務人員共處于餐廳這個空間裡，如此靠近彼此，卻又毫無交集，沉浸在各自的世界裡。然而，今日的餐飲業興起一股新風潮，名廚師如明星般受人注目，知名餐廳被大肆報導，一位難求。Joanne Finkelstein於此書闡述餐飲業背後複雜的消費主義、個人心理以及文化意義。在「吃」這件事上，在餐廳裡，我們最細微的自我表露無遺。在個體如原子般分立，互相陌視的社會中，餐廳裡孤獨的食客最深的欲望是在餐廳這個公共場合展現自己。
。(Eva&Celia)
Awards/获奖情况：“Finkelstein总能深入剖析现代文化中的欢宴、消费和时尚元素，在本书中她又一次分析了人们用于心理满足的消费方法——吃！书中处处闪现着独到的见解和聪颖的想法，值得我们用心品尝的一本书。”——悉尼大学世界史教授 格兰达•斯伦加.
“这本书完全改变了我对餐馆的看法，但我更想出门吃饭了。”——BBC“美食家”节目组，玛格丽特•芒福德
“An original, inventive, deliciously clever, necessary book that invites over-indulgence in all the most delightful ways. Finkelstein has always had a sharp eye for seeing deep into our culture of conviviality, consumption and chic. Here she exposes us all once again, in ways that satisfy the mind.” - Glenda Sluga, Professor of International History, University of Sydney
“I shall never think of restaurants in the same way again – but will enjoy eating out even more.”- Margaret Mountford, formerly of The Apprentice, BBC TV
About the Author/作者介绍： Joanne Finkelstein是社會學兼人類學家，於英國格林威治大學(University of Greenwich)擔任人文社會科學院院長。他的著作《Dining Out: A Sociology of Modern Manners》已成為此領域的經典著作。
Joanne Finkelstein is Dean of School of Humanities and Social Sciences, University of Greenwich.
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