EXTREME EIGER: THE RACE TO CLIMB THE DIRECT ROUTE UP THE NORTH FACE OF THE EIGER

Book ID/图书代码： 12290014B66963

English Summary/英文概要： The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had cost the lives of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams - one German, the other British/American - aimed to climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other’s attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on.

John Harlin led the four-man British/American team and intended to make a swift dash for the summit. The Germans, with an eight-man team and a mass of equipment, planned a slow, relentless ascent. Watching on was a young journalist reporting on the climb for the Daily Telegraph, Peter Gillman - for the Eiger is the most public of mountains, where tourists can observe the life-and-death struggles on the face from telescopes at the nearby hotels.

Almost 50 years on, Gillman recalls the dramatic events on the North Face of the Eiger, and assesses their effect on those who took part. One man died and others were permanently injured through frostbite. For Chris Bonington, it opened a path to a career and reputation as Britain’s foremost mountaineer. It was an epic ascent with profound consequences, redolent of a golden age of adventure and mountaineering.

Chinese Summary/中文概要： 艾格尔北峰一直都被认为是瑞士阿尔卑斯山地势最为险峻的一段路程，曾有不计其数的登山者在攀登的过程中丧命。1966年的二月，一支德国队伍，一支英国美国队伍都计划从艾格尔北峰山底爬到山顶。令人惊奇的是，他们之前并没有所约定，直到他们在山脚打了照面，比赛也就此拉开序幕。

约翰•哈林带领了一支由四个英国人美国人组成的队伍，计划以一条最快的线路登上顶端。而由八人组成的德国队伍因为携带大量装备，则计划了一条缓慢上升的线路。《每日电讯》的年轻记者彼得•吉尔曼负责报导此次比赛，因为艾格尔峰的知名度，游客们都在附近的旅馆中用望远镜观赏这场惊险的登山比赛。

五十多年过去了，吉尔曼回想起了艾格尔北峰的这场充满戏剧性的绝顶登峰比赛，并对所有参与的登山运动员做出了评论。有一人在比赛中丧生，其他人也因为严寒遭受了永久性创伤。对于克里斯•包宁顿来说，这使得英国先锋登山运动员的事业和声誉得到了提升。这场比赛是具有史诗般的意义，令人想起登山的冒险故事和黄金时代。（XAT）

Awards/获奖情况：彼得•吉尔曼和莱尼•吉尔曼写作的《极限艾格尔峰》是一部杰出的作品，它对1966年两支队伍比赛由山底直接攀登至艾格尔北峰山顶这一事件及结果都做出了有深度而全面的评论。我特别喜欢作者对登山运动员生平的描述，他们在比赛之前的生活，在登顶过程中担任的角色，以及比赛后是如何回归正常生活的。书中讲述了一群充满斗志的年轻人在实现梦想的过程中展现出了极大的决心。他们虽身处比赛中，却显得太具竞争性。两支队伍都是最好的队伍，都志在率先登顶。书中还包含了对克里斯•包宁顿、哈林家族以及幸存的德国运动员的采访。读者可以从书中了解到两支队伍的日常生活、他们取得的成功以及经常困扰他们的问题。约翰•哈林的路线使许多登山者跃跃欲试。但这条路线太过险峻，以至于成员中有一人丧生，虽然最后有五位登山者成功登顶，仍然没有给队伍带来很大的荣耀。参与比赛的每个人都受到了不同程度伤害和惊吓。彼得和莱尼认为与这些参赛者的家庭交流后发现，他们的思想读来竟是如此令人感到惭愧。书中记录了许多美好的回忆，但更多的是苦涩的。虽然关于艾格尔峰的故事已经为人们熟知，但这本书读起来还是能接受到许多全新的信息。对于每个喜欢登山和历险的读者来说，我强烈推荐这本书。

Extreme Eiger by Peter and Leni Gillman is an outstanding book. It is a thoughtful and comprehensive examination of the attempt to climb the North Wall of the Eiger by a direct route in 1966 and its consequences. I particularly enjoyed how the lives of the climbers are told throughout the book, their lives before the climb, their role during the climb and their return to some sort of normality. And what stories there are to tell! These were ambitious young men who showed remarkable determination to achieve their dream. They were in a race, and perhaps it became too competitive. Each team was the best team and they would reach the summit first. The book is filled with sensitive and informative interviews with Chris Bonington, the Harlin family and the surviving German climbers. These were enthralling to read and gave a perceptive insight into the everyday lives of both teams, the successes they enjoyed and the problems that gave them most concern.The John Harlin Route has motivated so many climbers. It is too brutal that a life was lost, and although 5 climbers pushed on to the summit, it did not bring great glory. The climb left no one unscathed. Everyone was scarred in some way. Peter and Leni discuss this at great length with all the families and their thoughts and observations are quite humbling to read. There are some good memories but there are too many bitter ones. This is a brilliant read which offers so much new information to an already well known story. In my opinion it is a must for everyone interested in mountaineering and adventure.

About the Author/作者介绍： 作为《每日电讯》的记者，彼得•吉尔曼跟踪报导了这场发生在艾格尔北峰上的比赛。在此之后，他写作了多本书籍，包括获得多个奖项的《乔治•马洛礼传记》、《最疯狂的梦想》等。彼得和同为作家的妻子莱尼现居于伦敦东南部。夫妻两联合写作了许多作品，其中包括《乔治•马洛礼传记》和《最疯狂的梦想》等。

Peter Gillman covered the story of the attempt on the North Face of the Eiger for the Daily Telegraph in 1966. Since then, he has written numerous books, including an award-winning biography of George Mallory, The Wildest Dream, which inspired the film of the same name. He lives in south-east London, with his wife and co-author Leni. Leni Gillman is a trained teacher and an experienced writer. With her husband Peter, she is the co-author of numerous books, including the award-winning biography of George Mallory, The Wildest Dream. She lives in south-east London.

Format:照片

Rights Status/版权销售情况：Simplified Chinese/简体中文：AVAILABLE

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