THE SUMMIT: HOW TRIUMPH TURNED TO TRAGEDY ON K2’S DEADLIEST DAYS
Book ID/图书代码： 12870014B67571
English Summary/英文概要： On 1 August 2008, 18 climbers from across the world reached the summit of K2, the world’s second highest and most dangerous mountain - a peak which claims the life of one in every four climbers who attempt it. Over the course of 28 hours, however, K2 had exacted a deadly toll: 11 lives were lost in a series of catastrophic accidents.
Attracting a climbing elite and standing at 8,611 metres on the Pakistan-China border, K2 is known as the ‘Mountaineer’s Mountain’ because of its extreme technical challenges, its dangerously unpredictable weather and an infamous and hazardous overhanging wall of ice known as the Serac.
Snow-bound at Base Camp for weeks on end and increasingly despairing of their prospects of success, an unexpected weather window gave the climbers the opportunity they were waiting for. In their collective desire to reach the summit, seven expeditions agreed to co-ordinate their efforts and share their equipment. Triumph quickly turned to tragedy, however, when a seemingly flawless plan unravelled with lethal consequences.
Over the course of three days, a Nepalese Sherpa called Pemba Gyalje, along with five other Sherpas, was at the centre of a series of attempts to rescue climbers who had become trapped in the Death Zone, unable to escape its clutches and debilitated by oxygen deprivation, chronic fatigue, delirium and a terrifying hopelessness.
The tragedy became a controversy as the survivors walked from the catastrophe on the mountain into an international media storm, in which countless different stories emerged, some contradictory and many simply untrue.
Based on Pemba Gyalje’s eyewitness account and drawing on a series of interviews with the survivors which were conducted for the award-winning documentary, The Summit (Image Now Films and Pat Falvey Productions, 2012), The Summit: How Triumph Turned to Tragedy on K2’s Deadliest Days is the most comprehensive interpretation of one of modern-day mountaineering’s most controversial disasters.
Chinese Summary/中文概要： 2008年8月1日，18名来自世界各地的登山者们攀登上了乔戈里峰---世界上第二高峰同时也是最危险的山峰的山巅---平均每四名登山者中就要有一人为之丧命。在短短的28小时间，乔戈里峰便敲响了死亡的丧钟：11名登山者在一系列的雪崩灾难中丧生。
乔戈里峰坐落在巴基斯坦与中国的边境地区，海拔8611米，对无数精英登山者们有着致命的吸引力，因其极具技巧上的挑战性，变化无常的气候以及臭名昭著且危机四伏的巨大冰墙"冰塔"而被称为“登山者的山峰”。
就在被大雪困在营地数周并开始对成功攀登愈加绝望之时，意料之外的天气让登山者们重新获得了期待已久的机会。出于攀登到顶峰的强烈欲望，7名探险者决定采用合作的方式来分享他们的装备资源。然而不幸的是，很快胜利的曙光便化身为了灾难，一场原本看似天衣无缝的计划最终散落成了一系列致命的伤痛结果。
在接下来的三天里，一名名叫帕姆巴•吉拉杰的尼泊尔夏尔巴人与其他五名夏尔巴人一起进行了一系列的救援活动，试图援救被困死亡圈的登山者们，氧气稀缺导致的疲软、慢性疲惫、神智昏迷以及无生还希望带来的巨大恐惧感都使得他们无法逃脱。
当最终的幸存者们离开灾难之峰，进入国际媒体的视线，他们再次身陷风暴之圈，他们遭遇的悲剧引发出巨大的争议，无数不同版本的故事竞相出现，有一些自相矛盾，而绝大多数都只不过是虚构的。
《巅峰：胜利与悲剧间的一线之隔，记乔戈里峰上的那些致命时光》基于帕姆巴•吉拉杰对所目睹事实的描述，并对灾难的幸存者们进行了一些列的采访，同时这些受采访者们也因此拍摄了获奖纪录片《巅峰》（已由Pat Falvey于2012年拍摄为电影），可以说本书是迄今为止对当今世界上登山界最具争议灾难事件最全面的解说与分析。（DC）
Awards/获奖情况：‘可怕的故事。。。。心潮澎湃的胜利。’《纽约时报》“一场复杂而又痛心的人性戏剧”《洛杉矶时报》
“令人紧张不已而又惊心动魄的精彩故事”《好莱坞报道》
“本书将告诉你你想知道却又从不敢询问的有关于攀登世界第二高峰中会遇到的一切危险。”《时不我待》
‘A terrifying tale...a pulse-pounding success’ New York Times
‘A complex and gut-wrenching human drama’ Los Angeles Times
‘A heart-throbbing cliffhanger’ Hollywood Reporter
‘Everything you ever wanted to know about the perils of scaling the second highest mountain on earth but were
afraid to ask’ Time Out
About the Author/作者介绍： 帕特•法尔维是一名爱尔兰探险家、登山家，他曾涉足世界上的诸多地方，其中包括远东、南极、格陵兰岛、巴布亚新几内亚西部，并曾两次登顶七大洲最高峰。他不仅是一名作者，演讲者，电影制片人，还曾知道了电影《巅峰》（由Pat Falvey于2012年拍摄），该影片正是记录了书中所讲述的内容。帕特现居住在凯里郡，近爱尔兰最高峰Carrauntoohil。
帕姆巴•吉拉杰•夏尔巴出生于尼泊尔北部并在世界最高峰的山脚下长大。其作为一名专业登山导游的经历曾带领他前往过阿尔卑斯和喜马拉雅山。2009年以来，他便一直是一名拥有IVBV/UIAGM/IFMGA认证的专业登山导游和一名经验丰富的阿尔卑斯山救援登山员。过去的13年中，他一直是一名高海拔山地攀登训练师，并且现为尼泊尔国家登山指导协会主席。引起在乔戈里峰悲剧事件中突出的救援表现，他被授予了2008年度国家地理最佳探险家称号。帕姆巴与妻子和两个孩子居住在尼泊尔首都加德满都。
Pat Falvey is an Irish adventurer and mountaineer who has led expeditions to many parts of the world, including Everest, Antarctica, Greenland and West Papua New Guinea. He has twice been to each of the highest peaks on the seven continents. An author, motivational speaker and film maker, he is the executive producer of The Summit (Image Now Films and Pat Falvey Productions, 2012) which portrays on screen the story told in this book. Pat lives in County Kerry, near Ireland’s highest mountain, Carrauntoohil.
Pemba Gyalje Sherpa was born in northern Nepal and grew up in the shadow of Mount Everest. His experience as a professional mountain guide has taken him to the Alps and Himalaya, including to the summit of Everest on seven occasions. He is an IVBV/UIAGM/IFMGA-certified mountain guide since 2009 and is an expert in alpine rescue and climbing. For the past 13 years he has been a trainer in high-altitude mountaineering. He is the current president of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). In recognition of his heroism during the K2 tragedy, he was named the National Geographic Best Adventurer of 2008. Pemba lives in Kathmandu with his wife and two children.
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